Bradford-on-Avon is an architectural paradise. The Wiltshire town not only has one of the most complete Saxon churches in the country, but fine examples of construction from every century in mellow Bath stone. The streets are so steep, the buildings are seen at dramatic angles. The town’s medieval hospitium (or travellers’ inn), the parish church (which appears in Gainsborough’s Parish Clerk), the widened packhorse bridge complete with chapel and the Tudor houses on a street called the Shambles are just a few of its many gems. The women’s almshouses and the Renaissance Kingston House are more.
Another of its most intriguing spots is the house of Si Harrington and Richard Sparks. Looking through their front window is astonishing. Inside is what appears to be a quaint 1940s French café: Thonet bentwood chairs, Gitanes ashtrays, Ricard carafes, a wireless, nicotine-yellowed walls. In just such a place, albeit across the Channel, members of the Maquis would have passed on coded messages, puffing on Gauloises.















