Nestled on the opposite bank of the river from the main attractions of York, Bishophill has always had a strong sense of its own identity. This little cluster of dwellings rises up from the disused wharfs of the Ouse, the brooding river that flows through the city centre. As you walk from one street to the next, orderly rows of houses frame views of the medieval walls, which form a protective ring around the neighbourhood. These massive fortifications impose a limit on the housing stock; now, as a thousand years ago, the area has a pervading sense of sanctuary.
I moved to York in 2012 for a lectureship in medieval literature at one of the city’s two universities. Within weeks, I’d made an offer on a house in Bishophill. Built in the 1880s, the vendor, I would later discover from the deeds, was a descendent of the original owner, a riveter employed in the tangle of goods yards, sidings and carriage works in York’s famous railway quarter.

















